Leaving the Mull of Galloway you soon descend from the cliffs and rocky shoreline to the shingle and sandy beaches of Luce Bay.
The Rhins has a rich and diverse heritage where there are strong links between long held beliefs, ancient sacred sites and Christian establishments. Where the land meets the sea had an important spiritual significance and the route takes you to places that were destinations for pilgrimage, healing and offerings.
On the cliffs north of East Tarbet you see numerous fingers of rock pointing into Luce Bay, hidden between them secret coves. A panel set against a drystone dyke tells the legend of St Medan and marks the approximate location on the shore below where the cave, chapel and healing wells associated with the saint are located. There is no path down to the chapel but if you peer over the cliff you can spot a circular rockpool that is the seawater holy or healing well.
Follow the coast along the field edges where scrub covers the undulating ground and provides cover for colourful farmland birds including linnet, yellow hammer and goldfinch. At the mouth of Kirk Burn is a bay called Portankill, a name derived from Gaelic meaning the landing place of the church. It was here that the early Kirkmaiden Parish Church with burial ground was located until it was replaced by a church near Drummore in the early 1600s. There are many other places along this section of shore associated with ancient churches or chapels including Maryport, Kirkbride and Chapel Rossan.
eggs are camouflaged with irregular streaks and blotches
Many waders migrate inland to breed but some birds choose to nest on the shoreline. Oystercatchers and ringed plover make their nest on sand and shingle above the highwater mark. Laid directly onto the ground in shallow scrapes the eggs are camouflaged with irregular streaks and blotches that break up the tell-tale outline of the egg and allow it to merge in with the surrounding ground. When they hatch the chicks are also coloured to disappear into the background and a warning call from the parent will make them lie down and freeze to resemble a rock or stone. Avoid disturbing nesting birds in the breeding season of May, June and July.
South East Coast
The Scares
Big and Little Scares are the rocky islands in the middle of Luce Bay about 5 miles from the Mull of Galloway. In the summer, these rocks are home to many nesting seabirds including over 2,000 pairs of gannets that can often be seen diving for fish close to the shore in Luce Bay.
St Medana
The story of Medana is told in the Aberdeen Breviary, one of the earliest books to be printed in Scotland and tells of a beautiful Irish maiden who had vowed to lead a religious life. To avoid being seduced by a noble knight she flees to the Rhins of Galloway but he follows her and on seeing him approach she takes refuge on a boulder in the sea. Praying for help the boulder floats across Luce Bay to the Machars. Once again the knight tracks her down and she asks him why he is following her. He replies that it is her eyes that are so bewitching and on hearing this she tears them out and gives them to the knight who, full of remorse, returns home.
Chapel healing wells
In the past the St Medana Chapel and wells were visited on the first Sunday in May, known locally as Co’ Sunday after the cave, when bathing was thought to cure many ills. It was believed to be particularly effective for sickly children. They were held by the ankle and dunked in the largest pool, the ankle the child was dangled by was then dipped in the next pool and finally their eyes were washed in the smallest pool. An offering was then left in the chapel and the cure was complete.
Cave of Grennan
The Loup of Grennan was a column of rock that provided a landmark for travellers until it was reduced in size when the road was improved. The nearby Cave of Grennan was reputed to have been the home of fairies and people passing by would leave offerings to the inhabitants to ensure a safe journey. The cave is also linked to the tale of a piper and his dog who ventured underground. The dog appeared some days later from a cave on the west coast of the Rhins but the piper was never seen again. However, on wild nights the piper can sometimes be heard playing deep underground. The mouth of the cave can no longer be found and has probably been hidden by a rock fall.
Ardwell Village
Your destination for this section is the small
village of Ardwell and Chapel Rossan Bay
Ardwell Village
Your destination for this section is the small village of Ardwell and Chapel Rossan Bay, a shingle beach with sand exposed at low tide. Little is known about the chapel that stood on the headland overlooking the bay.
Its name may have been derived from the Gaelic rossan meaning small promontory or Drostan from the name of St Drostan who was trained by St Columba and wrote the earliest surviving Scottish manuscript.
| Start | Mull of Galloway |
|---|---|
| Finish | Ardwell |
| Distance | 21 kms / 13 miles |
| Height Range | 0 – 45m |
| Total Ascent | about 100m |
| Grade |
Easy |
| Supplies | There is one small shop and a pub in Drummore. |
| Facilities | Public toilets are available in the RSPB Visitor Centre at Mull of Galloway, in Drummore, at New England Bay and in Ardwell. There is a water tap at New England Bay. |
| Public Transport | Regular buses to Drummore and Ardwell from Stranraer. For further information visit TravelineScotland.com |
